I have a confession to make. For years, when I thought of the Delaware coast, my mind jumped straight to the boardwalk fun of Rehoboth or the outlet shopping. It wasn’t until a friend insisted we spend a weekend in Lewes that I realized I’d been missing the true gem of the “First State.” There’s a different feeling here, a sense of calm and layers of history that you can almost touch. If you’re looking for a place that offers more than just sand and sun—though it has plenty of that—then let me introduce you to Lewes. This isn’t just a travel guide; it’s my heartfelt recommendation for a town that perfectly balances quiet discovery with genuine coastal joy.
Why Lewes is Rightfully Called “The First Town in the First State”
You’ll see this motto everywhere, and it’s not just a catchy slogan. It’s the bedrock of Lewes’ identity. Long before Delaware became the first state to ratify the U.S. Constitution, European settlers landed here. The story begins in 1631 when the Dutch established a whaling colony called Zwaanendael, meaning “Valley of the Swans.” Sadly, that settlement was short-lived, but the connection was forged.
Walking down Second Street, with its canopy of trees and beautifully preserved homes, you’re strolling through centuries. This deep history gives Lewes a grounded, authentic feel you won’t find in newer resort towns. It’s a town that has witnessed pirate raids, was bombarded by the British during the War of 1812 (a cannonball is still lodged in a historical house, which we’ll get to!), and evolved from a maritime and farming hub into the cherished destination it is today. Understanding this history isn’t just for buffs; it frames your entire visit, adding richness to every beach walk and museum visit.
Must-Visit Attractions in Lewes: From Landmarks to Lighthouses
Lewes has a wonderful way of mixing its attractions seamlessly into the fabric of the town. You won’t find sprawling amusement parks, but you will find places that engage your curiosity and connect you to the environment.
Stepping Back in Time at the Zwaanendael Museum
This building is impossible to miss, and that’s the point. Modeled after the town hall in Hoorn, Netherlands, its ornate Dutch Renaissance architecture stands out. Operated by the State of Delaware, it’s your starting point for the historical journey. Inside, you’ll find exhibits detailing the story of that first 1631 settlement, local maritime history, and artifacts from shipwrecks. Don’t just look at the displays; read the stories of the people. It turns names and dates into a compelling human drama. I spent a good hour here, and it completely changed how I saw the surrounding landscape.
Nature’s Playground: Cape Henlopen State Park
This is, in my opinion, Lewes’ crown jewel. Just minutes from downtown, this state park feels worlds away. You have miles of pristine beaches, including the popular swimming area at Herring Point and the more serene, dog-friendly stretches. But the real magic is in the diversity. You can hike or bike through coastal pine forests on the Biden Trail (yes, named for the family), climb the observation tower at the former WWII military base for breathtaking 360-degree views, or visit the iconic Breakwater Lighthouse.
One of my favorite memories is renting a kayak and paddling the quiet salt marshes on the park’s bay side. It was incredibly peaceful, just the sound of my paddle dipping in the water and the call of ospreys overhead. Whether you’re into fishing from the pier, spotting migratory birds, or simply having a spectacular picnic, Cape Henlopen is an essential part of the Lewes experience. It exemplifies the town’s commitment to preserving natural beauty.
The Lewes-Cape May Ferry: An Adventure, Not Just a Commute
Even if you have no intention of going to New Jersey, I recommend at least seeing the ferry terminal. The massive Cape May-Lewes Ferry vessels are a sight to behold. But if you have time, the 85-minute crossing is an absolute delight. It’s a mini-cruise on the Delaware Bay.
The view of the Lewes coastline fading away, followed by the approach to Cape May’s Victorian skyline, is fantastic. You can see dolphins playing in the wake, seabirds soaring, and on a clear day, the expanse of water is mesmerizing. I once took the ferry just for a late lunch in Cape May before returning, and it felt like a proper nautical day trip. It’s a functional service for vehicles, but for visitors, it’s a memorable attraction that highlights Lewes’ enduring role as a maritime crossroads.
Savoring Lewes: A Food Lover’s Guide to Coastal Flavors
Let’s talk about food, because Lewes surprises here too. You can certainly get fantastic, fresh seafood—steamed crabs, clam chowder, and oysters are local staples. But the dining scene has a refined, chef-driven edge that rivals much larger cities.
For a classic, bustling seafood experience right on the canal, The Oyster House is an institution. Sitting on their deck with a bucket of steamers is a rite of passage. For something more upscale, a(MUSE.) in downtown Lewes offers an ever-changing, inventive tasting menu that has earned it a stellar reputation. My most unexpected find was Half Full, a bright, modern eatery focusing on local ingredients and stunning craft cocktails—the perfect spot for a celebratory evening.
Don’t skip the smaller spots. Grab a coffee and a fresh pastry from Notting Hill Coffee on a morning stroll, or pick up artisan cheeses and picnic supplies from The Lewes Farmers Market (open Saturdays May-November). The commitment to quality, from fine dining to casual bites, mirrors the town’s overall character.
Planning Your Perfect Lewes Getaway: Practical Tips from Experience
To make the most of your trip, a little planning goes a long way. Here’s what I’ve learned from multiple visits:
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When to Visit: Summer is peak for beach weather, but it’s also busy. My secret favorite times are late spring (May-June) and early fall (September-October). The weather is still beautiful, the crowds are thinner, and you can actually get a dinner reservation without planning weeks ahead. The Sea Witch Halloween Festival in late October is a huge, family-friendly event if you enjoy costumes and parades.
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Getting Around: Downtown Lewes is very walkable and bikeable. Many hotels and B&Bs offer bike rentals. For Cape Henlopen State Park, having a car is helpful, but there is a bike path all the way from town into the park. Parking in downtown can be tight in summer, but there are public lots—just be prepared to pay a premium.
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Where to Stay: Choose based on your style. For historic charm, a Bed & Breakfast like The Inn at Canal Square places you in the heart of everything. For modern convenience and suites with kitchens, the Hotel Rehoboth (though in Lewes) is excellent. For a unique state park experience, you can even camp at Cape Henlopen.
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Don’t Try to Do Everything: The beauty of Lewes is in its relaxed pace. Don’t schedule every hour. Leave time to simply sit on the beach at the Roosevelt Inlet, watch the boats in the canal, or get lost browsing the shelves at Biblion used bookstore.
Conclusion
Lewes, Delaware, won me over not with flashy attractions, but with its quiet confidence. It’s a town comfortable in its own skin, proud of its deep history, and dedicated to preserving its natural surroundings. It offers the perfect blend: the educational depth of a historic village, the relaxation of beautiful, accessible beaches, and the culinary satisfaction of a foodie destination. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a nature lover, a family seeking a gentle beach holiday, or a couple looking for a romantic retreat, Lewes provides a uniquely layered and genuinely rewarding experience. It’s the “First Town” that, for many, becomes the favorite town.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Is Lewes a good destination for families with young children?
A: Absolutely. The Lewes Beach area by the ferry terminal is particularly calm and shallow, perfect for young swimmers. Cape Henlopen State Park offers lots of space to run around, a nature center, and the fun of climbing the observation tower. The history is also presented in kid-friendly ways at the museums.
Q: How far is Lewes from Rehoboth Beach?
A: They are very close, only about 5-6 miles apart (a 10-15 minute drive). It’s very easy to stay in one and visit the other, allowing you to experience both the historic charm of Lewes and the classic boardwalk energy of Rehoboth.
Q: Do I need to take my car on the ferry to Cape May?
A: No, you don’t. You can purchase a walk-on passenger ticket. Bicycles are also welcome. Once in Cape May, you can use the local jitney service, rent bikes, or explore the compact downtown on foot.
Q: What is one thing I shouldn’t miss in Lewes?
A: It’s hard to choose one, but if I had to, I’d say a sunset at Cape Henlopen Point. Watching the sun go down over the Delaware Bay, with the silhouette of the breakwater and lighthouse, is a breathtaking and completely free experience that captures the peaceful soul of the area.
Q: Is Lewes expensive to visit?
A: It can be, especially for lodging and dining in the peak summer season. However, there are ways to manage costs: visit in the shoulder seasons (spring/fall), look for vacation rental deals, utilize the free public beaches and state park access (there is a small daily entrance fee for out-of-state vehicles), and enjoy affordable treats like ice cream cones and picnics with market finds.

